Well, I'm not going to make it.
I didn't time it right. I should have waited. I should have paddled harder. The wall of water charging towards me keeps getting higher and higher. I am not going to make it over; there is nothing I can do but try. When you get to this point, you can't turn back.
The bow slices through the top of the wave, but the ama bounces up and arcs gracefully over my head. No brace can save this....
